200 years ago a young rifleman called William Law in 1 Company 1st Battalion 95th Regiment of Foot (Rifles) was part of the army that retreated through the Galician Mountains to Corunna. His company was in the thick of the rearguard action, and after the retreat fought in the battle at Corunna.
On the dis-embarkment documents for his company, of the forty people on the same page, 18 were killed or missing following the fighting at Cacabelos on the 3rd January, two more at the battle of Corunna itself on the 16th, and one more who had died on the ship on the way home. Over half of the men on that page didn't make it home.
Luckily, William did make it back, otherwise I wouldn't be here today!
It will be an amazing feeling to follow in his footsteps.

Vince Law

Regards

Vince

Subject: Foot sore but happy

  

Today we have pushed ourselves (possibly too much) covering 20 miles ending up in Cacabelos, one day after the british army 200 years ago, and one day after the spanish napoleonic association's reenactment yesterday!

  

I'm glad that we followed the light divisions route as far as Pontefarrada as in many ways we have also celebrated their retreat which was no walk in the park!

  

Worryingly the soles of my boots are disintegrating...

Subject: There's snow in them thar hills

A very hard days walking. We didn't get away until 11:00 but still managed 17 miles. That may not sound much but if you add the climb via the pilgrim path over the ferrol (iron cross) and add to that one foot snow (surprisingly difficult to trudge through you will understand how tired we were at the end of it.
It has been a day notable for its kindness. Lunch, chorizo sandwich and two glasses of beer, was a friendly affair with much chatting and photos, then the barman anounced that our lunch had been paid for by one of the other patrons.
Then at the end of the walk we found our intended aubergue to be closed we were taken in and given tea by a family who were going to drive us to the next one. They then announced that they had bed and breakfast rooms during the summer, but they were willing to open one up for us. We are waiting for food and chatting at the moment (or at least James is, as I don't speak enough spanish).
Well done to James though who went through the snow in his kilt!

Sent: 07 January 2009 16:56 

After a good nights sleep we woke to find aces gone and the blisters have given up

All that faces us is 12 miles of decent through the snow al least that was the plan until we took a unplanned detour… Imagin our joy when a farmer announced that we were the wrong side of the mountain But not to worry there is a track going over the mountain to get us back to were we should be going To call it soul destroying would be an understatement! I'm sure that one day we'll be able to laugh about it, but today isn't that day. We dedicate this detour to Fraser's Division and their little detour.

The extra detour meant that the decent was harder than it should be with each step pounding ankle and knee joints, and paths strewn with rocks to trip, slip, or ankle-twist the unwary. We have made it to Triacastela, dropping out of the snow line, so now it's only freezing mud that we're walking through. 

Subject: Walking in a winter wonder-where-we-are-land

Subject: The road goes ever on and on 

Sent: 09 January 2009 18:59 

Overnight we had a dusting of snow and the temperature just scrapped 1, 

which played havoc with sore knee joints. 

but Another monster day today walking from Sarria to Lugo. Supposedly 20 miles 

I demand a recount! 

As it was along the main L546 road it wa nothing but mind-numbing, 

sole-smacking, tarmac-slapping drudgery, though we did pass our 100 mile milestone during the walk. 

Once we reached Lugo there was another hour and a half getting from the outskirts to the centre.

The only good point of the day is that by pushing hard to Lugo we are now 

four marches away from Coruna. That puts us two days ahead of our schedule 

 (though one day behind the army 200 Years ago). As such, we are going to

 rest here at Lugo tomorrow and try to drum up some interest in the retreat 

which has been sadly lacking so far. 

Subject: Any which way you can

Do we The new day brings with it a new choice. 

head up the main road which more closely follows the retreat route, or do we go the pretty way? 

After Fridays road to hell we decide on the pretty route. Its not that far off the main route and rejoins it at Betanzos for the final approach to Coruna. 

It turned out to be the right choice as we have had a very plesent 15 mile walk through some stunning countryside. Though we have been burdened with the extra weight of the bottles of wine and beer that were stuffed into our bread bags after last nights soiree at the museum. We'll have to see what we can do to lighten the load... 

Tonight Friol is where we lay our hats and call our home. Now that the blisters and knees feeling better the rough wool of our respective leg coverings are starting to grate (quite literally). We are doomed to suffer every day of this march... 

Subject: All walk and no play makes jack a dull boy 

Sent: 10 January 2009 15:44 

  Today is a rest day to give some time for blisters to harden and knee joints to soften. That being said this morning we took a stroll along the 3rd century roman city walls. Just over a mile.

We then visited the museum (where we belong) and were immediately jumped on by the staff for photos and an offer to join their 75th Birthday celebrations this evening. Be rude not to... 

we've kept up the best military traditions as todays photo shows. 

Subject: Life in the freezer

I haven't dwelt much on our dwellings as the have been mostly good... Last night we found that Friol is at the centre of a man-made joy black

hole. No joy can escape leaving everything a little bit rubbish For example, the hotel room was so cold that when I opened the door I expected the light to come on! Seriously the long thermal underwear that I had packed for fear of cold on the mountains were used for the first time last night to stop me freezing to death in bed.

None of the bar/restaurants were serving food so we ended up with meat and bread from a late night deli. The house red wine, normally acceptable, tasted like what is left in the jar when you've finished the beetroot.

Even the morning coffee was the worst so far. The best part of Friol was the road out, and as you can see from todays picture we weren't the only ones to feel this way!

Todays walk was another pleasant ramble along country roads ending after 13 miles at the monastery at Sobrado. We are now in the province of Coruna so getting ever closer.

 However I do seem to be developing a dose of trotty botty (probably a present from Friol) but luckily I came prepared with tablets for that very eventuality. Hopefully all will be well and we can continue tomorrow.

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Updated 12/01/09